This is where I left off in the last post, the piece has been burnished and simulated wear added. A small amount of distressing was also added. It is now ready to be colored and finished.
Here it is finished.
This piece is made of white pine with cherry legs. Coloring pine presents two problems, grain reversal and blotching. The grain will almost always reverse if you dye or stain raw pine and some other woods. Blotching depends on how much grain runs out of the surface of your lumber. There are a couple of ways to deal with these problems. First is to completely seal the wood and apply the color as a toner so the color sits on top without penetrating the surface. There are dye and pigment toners and they both work. The problem with this approach comes after the piece begin to show some wear, it becomes obvious that the color is sitting on top of the surface. The second approach is to chemically change the color of the actual wood. This can include the use of bleaches, acids, mordants, UV light among others. The idea here is to try and recreate and accelerate the natural aging process. The problem with this approach is the the chemicals can be extremely dangerous to use.
This is a sample board I made using aqua fortis, garnet shellac and black wax.
A close up of a pine board treated with aqua fortis. You can see that the wood is darkened without grain reversal. The darkening is in the surface of the wood. Aqua fortis is made with nitric acid which is very dangerous. Don’t do this without being trained in the use of acids and the proper safety equipment.
The table chemically treated.
Next two coats of garnet shellac, then a coat of van dyke brown glaze.
The glaze was allowed to flash off [ dry until the shine was gone ] then wiped back. One more coat of thin shellac to seal the glaze.
The table was then given a coat of black milk paint. The milk paint was allowed to dry but not cure, about an hour, it was then scrubbed off strategically with a maroon nylon pad and water. Then another thin coat of shellac. Finally it was waxed with black wax a couple of times. The black wax does a couple of things, 1 it stays in every scratch, crack, plane track, ding and flaw and makes them show, 2 it takes the shine off of all the low spots and crevices and adds shine to all the high areas.
Here is the original piece from the Mesda. If you clic the link you can read all about it.
Mine is slightly smaller I built it to fit a particular space.